Essaouira

Fishing nets and boats in Essaouira



























The defensive ramparts











The walled city of Essaouira












Street scene in medina at Essaouira












The beach at Essaouira











Street musician- screwdrivers on a plate !

Day 11 (Not a consensus view !)

Essaouira is a French-planned seaside resort and major fishing port NW of Marrakesh. Great for windsurfing if you dont mind strong winds and coldish weather. We meet our local guide Abdul at a civilised hour – 9 a.m. He shows us around the port area and the walled Medina and Mellah (old Jewish area). During our walk we make the obligatory stops at guide-chosen shops selling jewellery, and wood products such as incredibly ornate boxes and tables inlaid with white Thuya wood patterns. Graeme supports the local economy at the Thuya wood workshop and I do the girlie thing and go for jewellery. Interestingly the jewellery coooperative produces traditional Jewish pieces e.g. Mezuzot.

The tour then went on to the the fish market, giving us a feel for the essence of the town. After the group tour Graeme and I had relaxation massages (they dont understand sports massages) at one of the numerous establishments. After that, as previously planned, Graeme and I met up with Abdul our guide again for a private tour of the Haim Pinto Synagogue and the 2 Jewish cemetaries. Abdul had contacted the caretaker of both the synagogue and the cemetaries to organise the visit. Once again, we appreciated time away from the Intrpid group, and found Abdul a very well informed and thorough guide.

Back to the riad where we were staying for a freshen up (for me) and a computer stint (fro Graeme). For dinner we had free time (no group dinner) so Graeme and I went to one of the fish stalls/restaurants where you are shown the fish, choose which you want and it is BBQed on the spot. We could look out to the water but as it was dark (and very cold) there wasn’t too much to see.We sat with an interesting couple, the woman from Meknes, the man a native Fijiian who now lives in San Francisco.

Off to Marrakesh!

Atlas Mountains

View from highest pass in Morocco

Road down from highest pass in Morocco

Town of Imlil

Ready to trek up the mountain

At Imlil

High Atlas Mountains near Marrakesh

High village of Imlil - some of Kundun was shot here

Off over Morocco’s highest pass to the high Altas Mountains (near Marrakesh). Our overnight stop is at a Gite (hostel) an hours walk uphill from the nearest village. Boy is it cold. No showers tonight.

Day 9

7:30 am start for a 4 hour trek further up the mountains to the snowline (about 7000 ft). Just what I was wanting (not). But the scenery is stunning. I ask the leader, Tahar, if we any films were made here. Yes, he says, but cannot remember the name. “Kundun” ?, I suggest. “Ah yes.” We could so easily be in Tibet. I feel as if we are on a Kundun film set.

Exhausted (I am, at least) we head of to the seaside town of Essouarai (spelling?) - an ex-breeding ground , up to the 1840s of the dreaded lost tribe of Sicree (for those who know my golfing associates).

Morocco's film industry - Go Crowe (Gladiator)

Cheryl's clothes being destroyed at the creek !!!

Inside Todra Gorge

The kasbah at Ouzarze - film capiltal of Morocco

Ait Ben Hadou = World famous fortressed area (and site of many films)

A 'modern' creek crossing at Ait Ben Hadou

Then off to the high Atlas mountains

Day 8

A long days drive. First key stop is Ouzarzde. Film capital of Morocco. Over 1000 fims from cowboy movies to the big adventture movies like Gladiator. An excellent place to visit the impressive kasbah (a sort of castle fortress), or the Cinema Museum or the movie studios. We visit a sheltered workshop for the disabled who make simple things to sell. Our night stop is at Ait Ben Hadou – a world heritage site. It is a now almost deserted kasbah on a hill but again wher parts of Gladiator, Mission Impossible, etc are filmed. Then off over Morocco’s highest pass to the high Altas Mountains (near Marrakesh). Our overnight stop is at a Gite (hostel) an hours walk uphill from the nearest village. Boy is it cold. No showers tonight.

The Sahara

We visited a place that makes tables, etc out of rock - each piece contains prehistoric amonnites, or trilobytes or etc. !!

The sands of the Sahara !

Dinner in the Sahara with our leader - and Cheryl

The camel trek in the Sahara

Where the Sahara stops (for a while !) and arid stony flat land begins

Day 6

Off south west to our Sahara camel ride and base camp tonight. At last it getting warmer. The landscape is like arid Utah (or I am told Israel) but with lush tropical oases and gorges along the Ziz River. Houses and villages are increasingly looking like those in Indiana Jones. All totally unlike the urban and agricultural Morocco we have seen to date. We reach the edge of the Sahara. The golden sand dunes of the Sahara seem to stop sharply with grey arid flat land beyond to the North. One hour's camel ride in and we seem to be in the middle of the Sahara. Cheryl has had panic stations flat out for months worrying about the freezing Sahara. All wasted – it was our hottest night so far (so to speak) and our clothing was soon shed.

Day 7

A long drive to Todra Gorge – site of many action movies (Indiana Jones, Mission Impossible,etc). After the Sahara early start we just shower and rest.

Day 8

Todra Gorge is rather like Standley chasm near Alice Springs from the distance. Very arid like the Macdonald ranges but with a large oasis for miles along the River. We do a two hour walk to the gorge (why didn’t we drive) had a long lunch there (not me. I am having a Ramadan Day) followed (groan) by the customary carpet sales spiel. Trapped with no escape. Finally, hours later, off to the Hamman (public baths). After 10 minutes of being scrubbed with Jex, waterboarded, and put on a human rack I broke down. I did a David Hicks and confessed to everything (except the night in the desert – what happens in the desert stays in the desert. Hence the term “just deserts”)

Middle morocco

Typical village in oasis (by river) in arid wasteland.,

Courtyard of our accomodation in remote area near Midelt

"Beautiful" village girls belly-dancing for us in remote area near Midelt

Rooftop of our remote auberge near Midelt. Cheryl in front. Middle atlas mountains behind

Middle atlas mountains near Midelt

Day 5 We move from the fascinating complexities of Fes to the simpler country life. Drove most - of the day through semi-arid high plains towards the mighty Atlas mountains (up to 4000 m). Passed through Ifrane – an upmarket resort town – very Swiss (sic) and on to Midelt after a simple picnic lunch, Views all day of the long middle Atlas range – like the NZ Southern Alps in winter ! Masses of snow even though we are close to the Sahara. No internet. In the evening we walk through a VERY simple remote village to see the ‘life’, simplicity, and people who live there. Our guide, Tahar, aims to show us the REAL Morocco. After dinner (tagines) we watch a small music and folk dance show from 5 of the local villagers. Fortunately it was fairly short – but did (groan) involve audience participation (I passed my hat around after but the lousy group contributed zilch.

Photos from Fes

Part of Fes's 32 km of wall

Gate in wall at Fes

A typical street in Fes medina (1 of 9000)

The famous tanneries at Fes

A food shop in Fes

Another gateway into the Medina at Fes

View of Fes medina

Fes - 1000 words is worth one picture

Fes

Graeme and I were really looking forward to Fes – the first imperial city in Morocco and the religious centre of Morocco, including former home to a very large and thriving Jewish community.
We had a local guide Mohammed who was a native of the High Atlas region. We started at the imperial palace which is not available for tours inside. Next to that is one entrance to the mellah, but we were unable to visist the famous Jewish cemetary because it is Pesach!! (Passover)
We went to a beautiful lookout area with fabulous panoramic views of this amazing walled city. Then off to a ceramic co-operative where tourists are expected to support the economy. I bought a small plate; Graeme dutifully restrained himself. After that we were off to the old medina which consists of 940 narrow streets. Given my sense of direction, I was glad to have a guide. We walked through the street of small delicacies, some of which didn’t look quite so delicate – pig’s trotters, eels, etc. We saw a stall making pastillas, the Moroccan specialty of meat, vegies, cinammon, and lots of spices encased in pastry. We had sampled these the previous evening at a family restaurant (in a family home). Despite the fact that I’m not usually a fan of cinammon, the pastillas are a real taste treat. Back to the medina and its winding alleyways, we visited the dyers and weavers souks (market), the carpenters souk, and the tanneries. Also the ancient university in the midst of all the souks! After that we were carted off to the carpet cooperative where we were subjected to the hard sell, but only 2 people in the group of 12 gave the vendors any joy by succumbing to the sales pitch.
Finally back to the hotel, but instead of resting, I cajoled Graeme into accompanying me to the mellah to explore my Jewish heritage further. We were shown around the Ibn Danan synagogue by the delightful young Fatima!!! whose family caretake the synagogue, one of the oldest in North Africa. The synagogue is no longer used on a regular basis, but just for special occasions. The old Torah scroll is made of camel skin and covered in beautiful embroidered fabric. After leaving Fatima we were led away at dusk (glad Graeme was there) by a young man who took us to a viewing spot so we could look down on the Jewish cemetery, given that it was actually closed for Pesach and we could not wander among the graves. We had to go through a private home to get to the vantage point, so in true Moroccan fashion, the owner was duly recompensed. Back for a wander in the stalls and jewelry shops of the mellah, and then a short walk back to the hotel. On the way we met one of out group and went back to join some others at a local bar. A welcome little wine oasis in what is to some degree a dry country in more senses than one. Off to the desert now.

Cheryl

Photoless days in Morocco

Like Websters Dictionary Cheryl is Moroccan bound ** (apologies to Bob Hope)

Made it to Morocco after a 9 hr flight from Dubai. First impressions were surprise. Surprise at the extent of the green fields around Casablanca – no sign of desert or of Rick, or Peter Lorre or of a beautiful relationship, or of tropical heat it is more like Melbourne when there is a cold Easter.

Also surprise at the drivers – they make Indian and Malaysian drivers look mild and sedate. Here drivers are just unbelievable. Dont ever think of driving in Casablanca.

No photos this blog (probably) due to technical difficulties – with the computer, with memory cards (which is full of errors), with space (Cheryl WILL take 8 M pictures), with Internet access, with ...... oh bring back the 1966 KSR 33 teletype (comment is for computer literati and museum curators only).

Back to Casablanca

We went to the Medina walled old city. Within 30 minutes I had punched a guy because he had his hand in my pocket whilst kicking at my leg. Good start. However in the Medina (unlike Dubai souks) shopping is for the locals. Very few tourists around - and they are all lost (probably been there for days).

Accomodation at the Hotel Mammoun was fairly basic – 1-2 star at best, but acceptable. Except for Cheryl who was dumped from her large room with bath to a tiny room without anyone (staff included) knowing why !!

Next morning was a trip to the Mosque. The Hassan II. 3rd largest in the World (Mecca and medina ) are the biggest. But here the 200 m. Minaret is the tallest religious tower in the world. It must be the most modern also. The inside is ornate compared to others such as the Blue Mosque. The huge roof slides open and the heavy entrance doors also are powered to rise up.

Otherwise Casablanca appears just a large oldish town with a lot of art deco and not much else. We never made it to the Jewish museum (time is always a constraint)– despite all the discussion. Like Turkey religion is not in your face all the time. They even joke about it “Women are NOT permitted to take photos in the Mosque” - only men can !”, announces the Mosque guide – with a poker face.

The Intrepid Tour Starts !!

Ok Off to Meknes via Rabat by train then on to Fez – 9 women and 3 men in our group. And Tahar our “guide” who previously was a Tourag nomad in the Sahara !! I am the only single man – or would be if Cheryl kept her mouth shut !! Bugger !

Rabat, Morocco’s capital, was more interesting than expected. Time for a 3 hour walk around the town covering the Medina( the old walled city ! Please concentrate !!), the Kasbah – also walled but mainly residential, the old Jewish centre (Mellah) -which had little indication of any Jewishness, the souks (markets)and other sights. Then on to Meknes (5th largest city). Again a 3 hour sef-guided walk much like in Rabat. But this time we were given a map and some details of what to see. Our guide is not actually a guide but the tour leader and trip facilitator – for transport, accomodation etc. Camel burger for lunch crammed in a tiny walled area that was, I am sure, originally a toilet cubicle !!

Next stop Volubilis – ancient ruins from when the Roman Empire ruled. As usual – just a lot of ruin but no Romans ! The guide however did whip off my cover – in the brothel – to expose me to all. (See photo if one appears)

And so on to Fes.

So far the food, no. of guides, accomodation has been fairly basic – probably to let us see Morocco as it is rather than the upmarket – “never leave the bus type of” - tour that Americans thrive on,

** Cheryl bought a new swish leather coat in Fes at the tanneries.

Apologies for no photos. Big technical difficulties.

Dubai

Prawns at Fish Souk (Market)

Worlds largest ring (15 -20 kg heavier than Kitty)

Dhow on Dubai Canal

Restored fort in Dubai - now Dubai Museum

Wold tallest building - the Burj Khalifa

Graeme swimming in Dubai Mall ??

Picture of Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall and the artificial lake between them

Graeme with his new, Quiet, OBEDIENT, SUBSERVIENT wife

Exclusive Hotel ("The Address) next to Dubai Mall (worrlds largest enclosed Mall )

View of artificial lake, artificial souk and Dubai Mall from Burj Khalifa

Artificial lake and apartment blocks behind

First stop Dubai. A city of contrasts. What do you call a pedestrian in New Dubai ? A. Dead ! Either they were killed trying to cross the first road, or they died of hunger trying to work out how to cross it. This is the city of the car. After all oil is what transformed this unheard tiny, fishing village of the 1960s into the Vegas of big cities. In new Dubai I first went to Dubai Mall – one of the Worlds largest; Chadstone on steroids. You could spend days there Outside of this a large artifical lake (this is in a desert by the way) with the world's largest syncopated fountain. And the Worlds largest aquarium (perhaps) Just behind is the Burj Khalifa – the World's tallest building. At about 850m high it is over twice the height of the Empire State ! A city of excesses and records.

So going to the Observation Deck at about 600m (on 126^th floor) is a must – even at over A$100 (sorry Kitty). Two problems. You have to book about 1 week ahead. I did !! Then you have to get the date right. Ooops – bugger, bugger, bugger. And there are STRICTLY NO EXCHANGES and NO REFUNDS. Bugger.

Anyway by shacking up and marrying one of the locals who works at the Burj Khalifa (see photo) I performed 2 miracles (for my canonisation – Mark) and got an exchange time and date. Phew. But what to do with wife 1 now ? Wife 2 is SO peaceful and subservient.

Old Dubai is very different from new Dubai. To see a totally different way of life you go to the traditional Souks (markets). However the different way of life is Pakistani not Arab. ALL the vendors and shop attenddants seem to be Pakistani. At the fish market – a HUGE place, as you enter you are asked if you want a wheelbarrow to carry your fish in ! - I was told every fishmonger was Pakistani !

I did try to buy Kitty a gold ring at the Gold Souk – she is worth her weight in gold you know – but the ring (see photo) at about 65 kg was 15-20 kg over the limit. And about 440 kg over Emirates weight limit. Sorry Kitty.

So the souks were generally a littlle disappointing – more for tourists than locals. There are a few historic forts, schools, dhows, etc which are usually renovated (or rebuilt) to retain their original appearance. They are informative and low cost or free.

Travel around is not easy unless you use taxis at about $5-10 a ride. The metro is good (as good as Singapore – or better). Trains are every couple of minutes but appear driverless ! But from the train the bus system is slow and hard to work out. And walking is often not an option (see above).

People are friendly. An Arab in white* sheik-like robes is in the train. He asks people where there are from When you tell him he says “Ah, from China”. You tell him again he says )OH, from India. I told him “dont come the raw prawn with me, mate).

Internet cafes are rarely (never ?) seen. And the hotel internet is often totally unusable – hence this delayed and long post. Apologies to those who dropped out after sentence two.

* (In Dubai men wear white robes signalling strength, purity, nobleness, and honour. The women wear BLACK. Very wise these Arabs.