Fes
Graeme and I were really looking forward to Fes – the first imperial city in Morocco and the religious centre of Morocco, including former home to a very large and thriving Jewish community.
We had a local guide Mohammed who was a native of the High Atlas region. We started at the imperial palace which is not available for tours inside. Next to that is one entrance to the mellah, but we were unable to visist the famous Jewish cemetary because it is Pesach!! (Passover)
We went to a beautiful lookout area with fabulous panoramic views of this amazing walled city. Then off to a ceramic co-operative where tourists are expected to support the economy. I bought a small plate; Graeme dutifully restrained himself. After that we were off to the old medina which consists of 940 narrow streets. Given my sense of direction, I was glad to have a guide. We walked through the street of small delicacies, some of which didn’t look quite so delicate – pig’s trotters, eels, etc. We saw a stall making pastillas, the Moroccan specialty of meat, vegies, cinammon, and lots of spices encased in pastry. We had sampled these the previous evening at a family restaurant (in a family home). Despite the fact that I’m not usually a fan of cinammon, the pastillas are a real taste treat. Back to the medina and its winding alleyways, we visited the dyers and weavers souks (market), the carpenters souk, and the tanneries. Also the ancient university in the midst of all the souks! After that we were carted off to the carpet cooperative where we were subjected to the hard sell, but only 2 people in the group of 12 gave the vendors any joy by succumbing to the sales pitch.
Finally back to the hotel, but instead of resting, I cajoled Graeme into accompanying me to the mellah to explore my Jewish heritage further. We were shown around the Ibn Danan synagogue by the delightful young Fatima!!! whose family caretake the synagogue, one of the oldest in North Africa. The synagogue is no longer used on a regular basis, but just for special occasions. The old Torah scroll is made of camel skin and covered in beautiful embroidered fabric. After leaving Fatima we were led away at dusk (glad Graeme was there) by a young man who took us to a viewing spot so we could look down on the Jewish cemetery, given that it was actually closed for Pesach and we could not wander among the graves. We had to go through a private home to get to the vantage point, so in true Moroccan fashion, the owner was duly recompensed. Back for a wander in the stalls and jewelry shops of the mellah, and then a short walk back to the hotel. On the way we met one of out group and went back to join some others at a local bar. A welcome little wine oasis in what is to some degree a dry country in more senses than one. Off to the desert now.
Cheryl
Graeme and I were really looking forward to Fes – the first imperial city in Morocco and the religious centre of Morocco, including former home to a very large and thriving Jewish community.
We had a local guide Mohammed who was a native of the High Atlas region. We started at the imperial palace which is not available for tours inside. Next to that is one entrance to the mellah, but we were unable to visist the famous Jewish cemetary because it is Pesach!! (Passover)
We went to a beautiful lookout area with fabulous panoramic views of this amazing walled city. Then off to a ceramic co-operative where tourists are expected to support the economy. I bought a small plate; Graeme dutifully restrained himself. After that we were off to the old medina which consists of 940 narrow streets. Given my sense of direction, I was glad to have a guide. We walked through the street of small delicacies, some of which didn’t look quite so delicate – pig’s trotters, eels, etc. We saw a stall making pastillas, the Moroccan specialty of meat, vegies, cinammon, and lots of spices encased in pastry. We had sampled these the previous evening at a family restaurant (in a family home). Despite the fact that I’m not usually a fan of cinammon, the pastillas are a real taste treat. Back to the medina and its winding alleyways, we visited the dyers and weavers souks (market), the carpenters souk, and the tanneries. Also the ancient university in the midst of all the souks! After that we were carted off to the carpet cooperative where we were subjected to the hard sell, but only 2 people in the group of 12 gave the vendors any joy by succumbing to the sales pitch.
Finally back to the hotel, but instead of resting, I cajoled Graeme into accompanying me to the mellah to explore my Jewish heritage further. We were shown around the Ibn Danan synagogue by the delightful young Fatima!!! whose family caretake the synagogue, one of the oldest in North Africa. The synagogue is no longer used on a regular basis, but just for special occasions. The old Torah scroll is made of camel skin and covered in beautiful embroidered fabric. After leaving Fatima we were led away at dusk (glad Graeme was there) by a young man who took us to a viewing spot so we could look down on the Jewish cemetery, given that it was actually closed for Pesach and we could not wander among the graves. We had to go through a private home to get to the vantage point, so in true Moroccan fashion, the owner was duly recompensed. Back for a wander in the stalls and jewelry shops of the mellah, and then a short walk back to the hotel. On the way we met one of out group and went back to join some others at a local bar. A welcome little wine oasis in what is to some degree a dry country in more senses than one. Off to the desert now.
Cheryl
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